Five A.M., a House That Wakes With Its Fire

Five A.M., a House That Wakes With Its Fire

In the dark restaurant, a single sliding kitchen window casts the day's work as shadows — one match at dawn lights the fire under the cauldron, in the morning two hands toss the seasoned greens, and at lunch each time the order bell rings, a single-serving pot is set over the fire one by one. At 1 p.m., the moment water is poured over the scorched rice at the bottom of the pot, the window opens for the first time, and a bowl of sungnyung (scorched-rice tea) steams on the small tray table at the windowsill.

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